Thursday, January 29, 2009

Mr. Salamander's Wild Ride/Extreme Sledding

If there is one thing I can say for the Swiss it is that they make the mountains accessible for everyone. Our friend Liv visited us recently and we wanted to show her the beauty of Switzerland in the winter. She doesn't ski so we decided to do some walking and sledding. On one of the days we took her to Grindelwald to experience sledding Swiss-style. Many ski resorts here are multi-sport resorts that include winter walking/snowshoeing and sledding trails. The sled trails are groomed just like the ski trails and sledders can use cable cars, trains etc. to get to the top just like the skiers. We took a gondola to First, the same place we lauched from when we went paragliding. We rented sleds at the First gondola station and then began our approach hike. Most people here use the traditional looking runner sleds, which were heavy to drag but were fast and raise you above the snow surface. We hiked for over an hour (unusual since in most places you can get transportation that will deposite you right near the top of the trail. Remember though that this is EXTREME sledding.) following a groomed hiking trail and ascending toward the Faulhorn at over 2600m. (On the map the Faulhorn is the peak on the far left and the sled trail is the purple trail on the far left) The weather was a bit unsettled with light snow flurries and blowing winds. Our trail intersected the sledding trail at a saddle below the summit of the Faulhorn. We were anxious to get sledding and out of the winds that were blasting over the saddle so we didn't actually go all the way to the summit. We turned our sleds downhill into the blasting wind and started down the 15km track. Yes, that's right 15 km with about a 1600m drop that takes you all the way back to Grindelwald. It is claimed to be the longest sledding run in the world or at least in Europe depending on the source you consult. The first section dropped steeply, with poor visibility. When Liv, S and Raven disappeared out of sight, I followed. In a matter of seconds I was hurtling down, barely able to make out the trail in front of me and hoping I could negotiate any upcoming corners because 1) I couldn't see very far ahead and 2) it was likely I wouldn't be able to stop and 3) I wasn't really sure the best way to turn one of these things. I skidded wildly around the first few corners and headed down another straight part. Suddenly it dropped off steeply again and I caught air. As I continued through the runout I cruised past the girls who had stopped to adjust their clothing. I navigated another set of sharp corners and dragged my feet to a stop. My heart was racing. I started laughing. As a kid growing up in the NE US I had done my share of sledding but never anything as epic as this. When the girls caught up we continued down the first half of the run to Bussalp where there is a restaurant. Just before the restaurant I hit a big drop and caught some air again and landed on some uneven terrain and too far back on the sled. My coccyx made solid contact with the back of the seat frame before I fell off the back. Fortunately the sled went off into some soft snow and stopped rather than hurtling down to take out an unsuspecting sledder just off the bus at the restaurant. It is difficult to go anywhere in the mountains in Switzerland without encountering a mountain restaurant. Good if you are hungry, bad if you want to get away from such things. We stopped for some hot chocolate and fries. While we were warming up, S was clearing the snow out of her hair, clothes and every possible place that could collect snow. She said she had been having a hard time seeing and had to clean out her nostrils along the way because they were getting packed with snow. Her unique style of foot-dragging resulted in a constant snowblasting of the face. See for yourself.
The second half of the run had many more sledders (we had had the upper part virtually to ourselves) and was more family friendly, sort of. The pitch wasn't as steep but you could still get up some good speed. I saw several people who went off the edge on corners. The trail followed a road during this part and I felt like I was on a big Go-cart track. The next day my body was sore and my tailbone still hurts sometimes, nearly 2 weeks after the fact. I highly recommend it, just make sure your health insurance is up to date and covers sledding. Good thing I have the extreme sports rider on my insurance. A friend who had previously sledded the route commented (paraphrased) "I think it is the most dangerous thing I have done in Switzerland, more dangerous than any climbing, skiing..."